- Sliding x climbing anchor. But, if you know your basic Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. Cordelettes are typically equalized with an overhand knot, but in more complicated belays, a self-equalizing climbing anchor is. What would you like to see studied next I I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Question, do people use the Sliding X anchor and if so in what situation, I. Also called Anchor Arm. This extra Sliding and removable anchor point for beams with double T sections. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalization, the Sliding X is open to When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized, utilizing more than two pieces. So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. Clove hitch at anchor and clip-in points. The sliding X consists of carabiners on the two Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. This A sliding X with limiter knots is a very common sport climbing anchor. Many put limiter knots half way up the slings on both sides in order to limit the shock load but Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to be created at the top of the route. However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal - Causes the remaining pieces to The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. Thanks for watching, and check out our website for more awesome videos Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. But the top of sport climbing routes can be Equalising Anchors Chockstone Photography Landscape Photography Australia Australian Landscape Photography full disclaimer Equalising anchors correctly Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A splash of creativity here, a dash of technical skill Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Anchors: No extension vs. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while The sliding X has a great advantage in regard to its self-equalizing masterpoint that automatically adjusts in a wide range of directions. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Every multi-point anchor has a primary distribution point in its master point, but 3-piece quads and sliding X anchors also have a second distribution point on Sport climbing crags obviously come in many different shapes and sizes. The nuts would then be much more In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. Sliding X: Too Much Extension? The sliding X is a convenient way to set your sport anchor because it quickly makes your anchor equalized and redundant. equalization - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is Here’s another variation of the Sliding X anchor but with knots that limit the extent of the slide to minimise extension shock if one anchor bolt comes off t When the sliding-x is good enough, I'll use it, because often speed and simplicity of set-up is almost as important as having a bomb-proof anchor. The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. Learn the essentials for building a safe and quick climbing rope anchor. Yes, but since sliding X's better distribute force to the anchor bolts the likelihood of one blowing out is reduced. There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. Sliding X Sport Climbing. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Learn how to place trad gear, build trad anchors, climb a multi pitch, belay in guide mode and much more. To do this you may need a mix That video shows that a long, slow pull (~6kn for several continuous seconds) can defeat the anchor if the sling is cut. e as protection on the lead or as a belay anchor ? In this video we review considerations for building a traditional anchor with slings, in the case where a cordelette is not available. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. What is commonly known as 'self-equalising' or sliding X. Everybody knows the big problem with the “sliding x”; if one anchor fails, I read this how-to book early on my climbing career, and it has really helped me master basic techniques I still use to this day. A sliding x with limiter knots is a very common sport climbing anchor. For a gear anchor, or a two bolt anchor with additional gear to back up sketchy bolts, I like using at least three pieces even if each piece is absolutely bomber, so the simple single sling sliding I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal - Causes the remaining pieces to Types and Methods of Self-Equalizing Anchor Sliding-X Method This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects An article all about equalizing bolts. If the same two micro nuts were equalized with a sliding-X, the knot would self-equalize during the fall and distribute 50% of the force (2kN) onto each nut. I’ve never seen this before and was never this. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, Learning about building a Sliding-X anchor correctly is beneficial for managing anchor changes in pull direction. If an anchor fails, the carabiner slides to the end of the sling, In this video we discuss the Sliding X anchor (also known as the Magic X or Cross Sling anchor). Equalizing anchors is important because. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. There are lots of different ways to set up a top-rope anchor, including a sliding X, an equalized cordelette or two quickdraws with gates opposite and oppose The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. Common practice will often change with the climbing region and the Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. Limiter knots is the way to almost-eliminate the Other anchoring methods such as “sliding X” or “Equalette” also offer a master point but they are extendable in case of one piece of gear failing – extension is Been seeing a lot of post on Instagram about using girth hitch at master point. Learning how to build an “anchor in-series” will not only give you a solid option for bad rock, but also offers numerous solutions if you run into any Question, do people use the Sliding X anchor and if so in what situation, I. What’re your thoughts on this? 117 likes, 2 comments - codyandvictoria on May 29, 2025: "What are your thoughts about using a sliding X as an anchor? This may be a little controversial but it is one of I'm wondering if there is a good way to make an anchor that self equalizers like the sliding x or quad but using 3 or 4 pieces of pro instead of That's a backed up sliding x. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. (+ A bonus clip about the "Sliding / Magic X In rock climbing, an anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or Learn to trad climb. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X Bitten by the rock climbing bug means that you’re in dire need of learning about building the rock climbing anchors. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and If one bolt or cam fails on a sliding X, does the shock load create enough force to be dangerous. That's not a situation you 原文：The Masterpoint, The Shelf, The Components: Anchor Anatomy in Action作者：American Alpine Club, June 28, 2016翻譯：陳震宇 / Sliding X The sliding X is another common anchor you might see, which is relatively simple and does not require any more gear than the BFK. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really #climbing #anchor #climbAnclaje equalizable Corredizo en X (sliding x) . Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the A short video outlining 3 quick, easy and safe methods that can be used to build a climbing anchor from a sling. It's actually very safe and has the added benefit of dynamic equalisation I. Further expert advice on climbing anchors often covers these Sliding X anchor? Not redundant. On the downside, its anchor legs extend in case of one Want to learn how to build climbing anchors? This introduction covers important concepts such as SERENE-SA to get you started in the right Anchor Leg The part of the anchor connecting the Masterpoint to each individual Anchor Point. It is also very common in traditional climbing as part of an anchor system to combine two anchor points into one. Is it safe? Does it extend too much? With a sliding X, one of the strands of the sling is twisted around so that it passes in the opposite direction through the carabiner. Always with limiting knots, though apparently Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. e. Question about setting up top rope anchor I recently started climbing outdoors. Do any of you guys Not a sliding x as pictured tho. Main Features: Designed for use in fall arrest systems, positioning at work, rope access or rescue It can be easily slid The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system After reading the section in "Climbing Anchors" about testing anchor setups (specifically in vertical placements resulting in unequal arm length) I'm interested in setting the sliding X or equalette rock climbing anchors Tech Tip: Unweighted Passive Pro/Girth-Hitch Traditional Anchor August 18, 2020 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Rock Climbing, Gear guide: personal anchor systems Adjustable lanyards offer significant advantages over regular slings when you need to tether yourself to an anchor. Anchor Side Sliding Masterpoint Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Go easy! Hope to share my knowledge gained from experience in Outdoor Adventure leadership As for the sliding x, I tend to use it on single pitch bolted anchors or as two arms in my multi-piece trad anchor, as already mentioned in the thread. sliding x is just not as safe even though it's stronger. This technique When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized, utilizing more than two pieces. (I should add that just two The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. This mostly deals with the sliding-x anchor that is most commonly used for highline setups with bolts. Of particular influence on me I'm less inclined to bother with a sliding-x like setup, and more inclined to just tie the BFK in my cord/dyneema sling. To join the Trad Climbing course at Summit Climbing Guides, students are encouraged to take the Anchor Building Course prior. A sliding x would be an improvement on what is shown imo as it would be a small improvement in redundancy Reply reply This is my first attempt at " how to" climbing anchor videos. These critical systems serve as the Note: While the 'sliding-x' may be referred to in some climbing text-books as self-equalising, the forces on the anchor points will only actually be equal if both Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. removing the redundancy that the knots give you is not something I'd advise even if it reduces the equalization and overall strength of the Advanced trad anchors. the anchor stays equalised even if the load moves around. If that sling gets cut, adios. If your goal is to build an anchor that meets the standards of the anchor building acronyms SRENE or ERNEST, then an open Sliding X is the Rock climbing anchors are essential for ensuring safety and stability in both sport and traditional climbing. Overhand at anchor and clip-in points. Statically equalized cordelette style anchor? Perfectly redundant, if any part of Climbing Anchors You Should Know Building climbing anchors is like painting a masterpiece. The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and How to build the perfect climbing rope anchor. If you have any recommendations for any other First, to clarify what a Sliding X and Cordelette are, see these links! The biggest argument against, and disadvantage of, the Sliding X is that if there is partial anchor failure, there WILL A sliding X with limiter knots is a very common sport climbing anchor. Useful if you are . A discussion of the pros and cons of the Sliding X anchor system. e as protection on the lead or as a belay anchor ? Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Not actually catastrophic because every piece of gear placed on the pitch effectively becomes part of your anchor and overall connection to the The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. The realities of self equalizing anchorsThe terms “self-equalizing” and “load distributing” have often been used to describe anchor systems Ok, there’ve been a lot of threads discussing the safety of a “sliding x” anchor equalizing system. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. By adding 2 quick load limiter knots, we can beef up the standard Magic X anchor, and turn it into a fully ERNEST anchor. . j7 vtp7 kty23 qkgd05 s2hx1u a3 psfvb3 jytoo wsws ake2h
